Shared Projects

15x18 mm audio recorder based on the ATJ3315 codec SoC.

Lets the ESP8266 plug into a breadboard

MPU9250 9-axis motion sensor and MS5637 pressure sensor add-on for Teensy 3.1 hardwired for I2C. Added solder jumpers to take power and ground from board edge for easier breadboarding. Readjusted position of bypass capacitor.

This is a small adapter board to use an HC-05 or HC-06 bluetooth serial adapter for a Yaesu FT-100, FT-857, or FT-897. The circuit is exactly the same as the one for the FT-817, just a slightly different mounting method for the LED and Mini-DIN 8 connector. SJ1 is used to provide V+ to the adapter to enable AT command mode on an HC-05. R1-R3 are identical values, and are used to convert the 5v TTL signal from the rig to the 3.3v signal expected by the bluetooth adapter. R4 is the current limiting resistor for using an HC-06, R5 is the current limiting resistor for the status LED for an HC-05. R4/R5 may be omited if you do not desire having a status LED. The voltage regulator is a AMS1117-3.3v or LM1117 3.3v regulator. This board is designed to go straight off the back of the radio and not interfere with any other ports. This board WILL NOT fit on the FT-817 when it is standing on it’s back feet, although otherwise it will work.

This is a small adapter board to use an HC-05 or HC-06 bluetooth serial adapter for rig control of a Yaesu FT-817. SJ1 is used to provide V+ to the adapter to enable AT command mode on an HC-05. R1-R3 are identical values, and are used to convert the 5v TTL signal from the 817 to the 3.3v signal expected by the bluetooth adapter. R4 is the current limiting resistor for using an HC-06, R5 is the current limiting resistor for the status LED for an HC-05. R4/R5 may be omited if you do not desire having a status LED. The voltage regulator is a AMS1117-3.3v or LM1117 3.3v regulator. This board is designed to be able to be left on the radio, even when it is standing on the back end, and not interfere with any other ports.

Please note that the FT-817 leaves the port powered at all times, so it may be advisable to leave the LED off if concerned about power consumption. The bluetooth adapter itself is rated to consume 10mA while actively paired, and 30mA while disconnected, according to the datasheets I have seen.

EDIT 7/24/26: V2 of this board has been created due to some issues of an unconnected ground. Pads for a capacitor have also been added. V2 can be found here: https://oshpark.com/projects/eAvOHn82

Breakout for both WS2812 and WS2812B

Wind Sensor Board

Power supply for Scoreboard Project

Inductive Coil Driver

Generic switching power supply block, with emphasis on low EMI.

High performance multi-output linear power supply.

Nordic Semiconductor’s low-power 2.4 GHz RF radio with pcb antenna and matching circuit per Nordic’s spec. Using much smaller XRCHA16M Murata crystal to reduce cost and board size. Improved layout and ground pattern slightly, corrected silkscreen error.

PIC18F2455

microSD card via PIC24F to ethernet

Same overall functionality as the 1st version, but with a pin fix and less connections to the FPGA.

WARNING I forgot a resistor between the Pi and the base of Q1. You can still use this board if you’re willing to do a little hackery (put a 1k between the Pi and the base of Q1), or if you only want the filter section. I suspect I’ll re-release a fixed version of this at some point.

A digital amplifier for GPIO4 on a Raspberry Pi, followed by a 7 pole low pass filter to clean up the signal. I don’t know if the amp will work, these are my prototype boards to test. The idea is to treat GPIO4 as a DIGITAL signal, amplify accordingly, then filter when done. I honestly have no idea whether this will work. Worst case, leave off Q1-Q3, R1-R3, and jumper from the input at Q1 to the output at Q3 or Q2 and just use the filter section of the board. Your RF neighbors will be glad you did.

I modeled this amp after a CMOS logic gate: complimentary gates always either off or in saturation, and only dissipating heat during the transition. Faster transistors (than 2N3904/6) will hopefully be more efficient. GPIO4 is a 3.3v signal, but the 3.3v supply can only give 50mA. To use the 5v supply and be able to turn Q3 off, I first needed to amplify the 3.3v signal from GPIO4 to a 5v signal, which is what Q1 does. I’m honestly not sure whether the 470ohm R1 will pull Q3 out of saturation quick enough, so we’ll see how that goes.

This can be used on any band, but the values below were calculated for a -3db point of 150MHz for use on the 2m Ham Bands. Combine with something like WsprryPi or nbfm (proper download link) and you’ve got something potentially really useful.

Parts:

• C1: .01uF
• C2, C5: 9.1pF
• C3, C4: 39pF
• C6: 680uF
• C7: 10uF (I had these laying around, so I didn’t order them and therefore don’t have a link handy.)
• L1, L3: 64nH
• L2: 100nH
• R1: 470
• R2, R3: 1k
• R4: 10k
• SMA Connector
• Q1, Q2: 2N3904, or similar NPN BJT. (I also had these laying around so don’t have links for you) You might want to go with something better for RF.
• Q3: 2N3906, or whatever the PNP counterpart is to whatever you go with for Q1 and Q2.

Disclaimer: I list components here for a low pass cut-off of 150MHz for use on the 2m ham bands. Using these values for lower bands (ahem 3m, FM broadcast) will work, but you won’t be filtering nearly as well and will still be putting out gobs and gobs of harmonic noise and probably pissing off other legitimate users, ESPECIALLY if you are using the amplifier here. You’ll attract a lot less attention by re-calculating the values of C2-C5 and L1-L3 for a cut-off of about 110MHz (or lower, if you know you’ll be using the lower part of the band.) To be clear: transmitting on the FM broadcast band without a license is illegal (at least here in the US), but if you’re going to use my board to do it, I’d rather you do it cleanly.