This PCB was designed by Warren Young of Tangentsoft and uploaded here from the EAGLE files made available at his page on the Modified Linkwitz Crossfeed. A schematic with values for components is available here. This circuit is based on the work of Chu Moy, originally posted on HeadWize. That page has since disappeared from the internet, but here is a link to the page on The Wayback Machine for some added context.

I’ve built this project with the following parts from Mouser:

• 2 x 642-5246AB (DPDT Switches)
• 2 x 568-NYS367-2 (Red RCAs)
• 2 x 568-NYS367-0 (Black RCAs)
• 2 x 279-H82K0BYA (2K - R1A)
• 2 x 279-H81K5BYA (1.5K - R1B)
• 2 x 279-H81K0BYA (1K - R2)
• 2 x 279-H89K09BYA (9K09 - R3)
• 4 x 279-H83K32BYA (3k32 - R4 & R5)
• 2 x 667-ECW-F4223HL (0.22uF - C1)
• 2 x 667-ECW-F6124JL (0.12uf - C2)

Note the board accommodates C2(R|L)1 and C2(R|L)2 to allow using 0.1uF and 0.02uF capacitors in parallel, but the above 0.12uF caps can be used in the positions marked C2R1 and C2L1, omitting C2R2 and C2L2.

My completed build went into a Hammond 1590BBK (546-1590B-BK) - the RCAs will just fit on the short side of the box and leaves plenty of room for the switches up front and wiring up the PCB. A larger enclosure would make assembly much easier. Here are templates that can be used for drilling holes in the enclosure: Front Panel Switch Layout & Rear Panel RCA Layout. Note that the gray circles encompass the largest dimension of the square switch body and the largest dimension of the nut used to secure the RCA jacks. You should measure the components to select an appropriate drill size for the actual hole needed to mount the switches and jacks.

I used some heavy-duty double sided adhesive foam to secure the board in the box and some 7N silver plated OCC copper wire from eBay for hooking everything up.

SD modification for 2016 NES and Famicom classic consoles. Fits 2016 boards marked “FTM-NES”.

This board should be ordered on the 0.8mm service.

Project documentation and source

SD modification for 2018 SNES, NES, Super Famicom, Famicom and Shōnen Jump classic consoles. Fits 2017/2018 boards marked “FTM-SHVC”.

This board should be ordered on the 0.8mm service.

Project documentation and source

Spare or replacement 4027-1 VCO sub board for the TTSH (Ver.1, Ver.2 or V.3).

8 Key Macro Board

Programmable with Arduino or QMK

Eagle Files, Arduino Sketch and a 3D Printable case can be found at https://github.com/wadesherman/micromacro

You need: * 8x Cherry Switches * 8x 1N4001 Diodes * 1x Sparkfun Pro Micro * 1x Breakaway Headers

But, Smitty, what is a Miller Solar Engine? https://cdn.solarbotics.com/products/documentation/miller_solarengine.pdf

Neat! What are you planning to make with an MSE, Smitty? https://makezine.com/projects/make-12/solar-xylophone/

Help! I can’t find the 1381 part used in that PDF! Is there a substitute? http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/20001889F.pdf

Same components used as my other cdi board just incorporates an 8 pin mini din. Made to be soldered into the rf space of a cdi 220 console. First, desolder the rf box. Then solder on components and din to the pcb, then flush cut and tape bottom. Then solder capacitor or resistor legs from bottom of the motherboard through the rf slots through top of motherboard. Then place pcb over top of the legs, align board, solder in, and flushcut the legs. Can use an md 80sm din from digikey or mouser or uxcell from Amazon. Install wiring guide at retro rgb .com

https://github.com/benfroelich/pi-relay-driver

AVR Programmer using FT234XD

You can find the project on hackaday.io

This breakout board is designed for the HTSSOP-38 package used by the PCA9956B 24-channel I2C constant current LED driver. There may be other ICs that use this same package.

This board uses the recommended pad layout specified in the PCA9956B datasheet, which includes larger pin 1, 19, 20 and 38 pads, plus a pad undernath which is connected to a copper fill on the rear of the board.

Traces are 9 mil, except for pins 1, 19, 20 and 38 which are 17 mil.

The original version of the utility board that converts a +/-10V CV signal to a current level compatible with a retro analog ammeter. Battery or USB powered (no internal battery charger). From the collaborative project with John Park’s Workshop. Schematic: https://github.com/CedarGroveStudios/RetroMeter