final

Eastbots DIO tester/breakout board, 2019 season revision.

based on previous diobd design: Tester and breakout for FRC and similar digital I/O. The 3-pin 1x3 headers each carry Ground, +5v, and Signal, in that order. Build it as a tester, with male and female horizontal socket and header strips. Or omit the male headers, and directly solder in the wires from a limit switch or break-beam sensor. Designed by FRC team 4795.

this rev add silkscreen identifying the three signal pins, and some #2 mounting holes. Silk on the back identifies this as being designed (and potentially fabricated) during the 2019 FRC season.

This is a very simple, beginner friendly, ATTiny programmer made to pop onto an Arduino Uno board. This board was designed with ease of use and minimal cost in mind. All of the passive components have both SMD and through hole footprints for simplicity and versatility.

To use this board flash your Uno with the Arduino as ISP sketch from the examples, then solder in the 12 header pins(6 on either edge), add in the 10UF capacitor - making sure to have it polarized correctly, and solder in your ATTiny IC or an 8/14 pin socket(or both!) And pop in your IC(again, keeping the orientation of the chip in mind), then flash the appropriate bootloader of your choosing from the Arduino IDE! Easy as that! If you like you can also add two 1/4w(or 0805) 220ohm resistors and two 5mm(or 0805) LEDs, and additional headers to prototype right off the board.

Things to keep in mind: The 10uf capacitor basically stops the ATMega on your uno from being programmed and allows it to program a different board, so you cannot put the shield on your Uno until after you’ve flashed the ArduinoISP sketch to your Uno. All of the analog pins on both packages are also assigned to a digital pin; if you’d like to use digitalRead, digitalWrite, and so on simple check out the relevant pinout for the IC you’re using to get the appropriate digital pin number! This board will definitely work with the DIP packages of the following: Attiny13/13A, Attiny25/45/85, and Attiny24/44/84. It may work with others, if you’re unsure, if it will work with your 8/14 pin Atmel MCU feel free to ask!

What You’ll Need: •8 or 14 pin ATTiny •Existing Arduino board or ISP programmer -(You will need dupont cables if not using an Uno) •10uf Capacitor in either a 1206 or 5-7mm radial package •12 Header pins (technically you only need 6 but it’ll be sloppy) Optional: •1x DIP-8 Socket •1x DIP-14 Socket •1x Blue 5mm or 0805 LED •1x Green 5mm or 0805 LED •2x 220ohm resistors in 0207-10(standard 1/4W) or 0805 package

using side entry battery holder

Supplemental board for sPWM v3.

What you need:

• Omron B3SL-1002P or similar tac switch or external switch of your choice
• 11 male pin headers, 2.54mm pitch
• Model 93 pot (for onboard use) or 2 switches of your choice for the pot wiring
• LED or 3-wire VM
• 6mm Standoffs
• screws of appropriate size (i.e. M1.6)
• sPWM v3

This PCB will fit all G+ and bigger enclosures. Pad on the board are marked (VM, digipot, LED). Find us on facebook (Holy Fock Box Mods) for STLs for a drilling guide. The sPWM is sandwiched between this PCB and the enclosure wall, with the mosfet facing the enclosure. Board has a cutout to solder the power wires directly to the sPWM.

This is a fun small project to practice with SM devices and build something interesting. When complete you will have a small hand held dual die powered by two 2450 coin cells. The die has a rolling effect which can be altered by changing a few R and C components. In the current set up the die roll for about 6 seconds.

The top silk layer is not included to allow the die LEDs to stand out, the dot on the metal layer is the anode/positive side. The parts on the top are U1, U1: CD4017 (pin 1 is towards the switch SW1), Q1-Q6: 2N7002 the smaller parts, FET1-FET4: DMP2240 and the LEDs D1-D14. The two push-on switches (PB1 & PB2) are also on the top. The main switch SW1 mounts to the bottom of the board with the battery holders.

Parts List

Digi Key cart

The R and C parts are not that critical and can be ones you may already have. The capacitors C1 & C4 along with R13,R15,R29 and R31 control the rolling of the die effect.

The 10K resistor list should be R4,R5,R7,R8,R9,R10,R11,R12,R14,R20,R21,R23,R24,R25,R26,R27,R28,R30; Digi-Key limits the number of Refs.

DON’T ORDER THIS YET!

This is Prototype Version P1.0: This is the first prototype board, so it would be risky to order it just yet. But we’re getting close.

The board is designed to mate with the ARDF 2-Band Mini Transmitter board, also available on OSH Park. Board outline is designed to fit Hammond waterproof enclosure manufacturer part #1554F2GYCL or #1554G2GYCL.