A tiny battery powered data logging board based around an ATMega328

Wireless Sensor node based on Attiny84 and RFM69W

3.3V 1A Buck. Built this to run my power hog digital camera. Uses LT1767EMS8E-3.3 with sync & on/off provision. Can be used with all other versions. Output pad spacing fits 2XAA batteries

More Info Here

This Arduino Pro Mini shield allows to convert data coming from APM 2.6 GPS/compass combo into various other formats required.

One of the interesting examples is conversion into Naza (Lite/v1/v2) flight controller format, making it (together with a uBlox Neo 6M or Neo M8N and HMC5883L compass module) an alternative for the original Naza GPS puck.

More details about this particular conversion can be found in this RC Groups thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30011989&postcount=1

Following components are needed to assemble the adapter:

• 1 * TI LM1117 fixed 3.3V LDO regulator in SOT-223 package
• 2 * Tantalum 10uF/16V capacitors in SMD A package
• 2 * BSS138 N-MOSFET in SOT-23 package
• 5 * 10kΩ resitor in 0805 package
• 1 * 1x13 straight 2.54mm header pins (divided into 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 5 sections)
• 1 * 1x4 right angle, low profile 2.54mm header pins (e.g. Adam Tech PH1RB)
• 1 * 4 pin Molex Picoblade 1.25 mm, right angle connector (MX-53048-0410)
• 1 * 5 pin Molex Picoblade 1.25 mm, right angle connector (MX-53048-0510)
• 1 * Arduino Pro Mini 16MHz/5V board (with Sparkfun compatible pinout - A4/A5 pins broken out next to A2/A3)

If you also want to add a reverse polarity protection (so the board is not fried when the power is connected the wrong way) you’ll need and additional P-Channel MOSFET and an enhanced (v0.5) version of the PCB. Details can be found HERE. Other than the extra MOSFET the rest of the board assembly is the same as below.

Here is how the shield looks like when assembled

Picture below presents how the components are placed on the shield (both sides):

Note the VIN - PMU/FC solder pads at the bottom of the board. You should have these soldered in order for the adapter to work:

• when powering with 5V - solder VIN pad with FC pad
• when powering with more than 5V - solder VIN pad with PMU pad (note that in this case the Adrduino’s built in power regulator will be used to power everything so you must not exceed its voltage and current limitations)

Here you will find an explanation on where the “strange” FC/PMU naming convention comes from.

Here is how the shield shall be stacked together with Arduino Pro Mini board

Credit goes to MCfuturegame .. for the Arduino Pro Mini model used in the above rendering.

This shield is meant for hobbyists and DIYers only. Although this board has been used and tested for quite a while there are no guarantees it will work. You can download the design file, modify it to your needs and build the board for yourself but you always use it at your own risk!

Not for commercial use!

UNTESTED DESIGN - USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

120VAC LED Driver with PWM Control.

This driver is set to drive 4-12 1 watt LEDs. Simple component changes should allow you to drive even higher current LEDs. See link below for schematics, BOM and design details.

Evernote Project Notebook

designed for www.mysensors.org

10BaseT interface using discrete differential drivers and receivers.

Hole and Pad Size Reference.

Don’t find out the hard way that your 1N4007 rectifier diode leads won’t fit in a 0.9mm hole! :)

Plug a dual-triode vacuum tube (12A*7) into a breadboard. Or do it dead bug style with the screw terminals. Yay.

Add 0.5" hex standoffs to rear holes to support tube/board weight when plugged into breadboard.

I have used this board a bunch on a recent project, and it really beats soldering a bunch of wires to the pins of a plain tube socket!

LM386N-3 chip audio amplifier PCB. I power this with 12V DC (Add a 100µF electrolytic filter/smoothing cap across the DC power input if using a wall wart). The other values are:

R1 10 Ω ½W metal film resistor
C1 0.1 µF 50V electrolytic capacitor (or a ceramic or film cap)
C2 0.047 µF 100V box film capacitor
C3 330 µF 16V electrolytic capacitor

I have used this PCB in a couple of projects and it works well. Low noise and very compact. It operates in 20x mode (You can always bodge on a 10µF electrolytic between pins 1 and 8 if you want noisy 200x mode).

dash button on ESP8266

10 Position PinTap v1.0

Fuzzrite-style distortion for modular synthesizers; ZIPped schematic and build instructions

Passive ring modulator synth module; ZIPped schematic and instructions

Adapter for GPS to Bluetooth

[WIP] micro quad [DO NOT ORDER]

Connects a Nrf24 radio to Arduino Pro