Shared Projects

MySensors Rev.2

Breakout board for TLC59281DBQR

REVISED TVP5151 for GUMSTIX OVERO

Auxillary Test Board for Main board tester

Constant voltage 4 channel LED driver for maple mini and STM32F103 clones

Mutable Peaks DIY

ESP-07 / ESP-12 breakout board

• IC1 AMS1117 3,3V Vreg
• MicroUSB connector
• Tactile switch for programming mode
• C1 10uF 0805
• C2 10uF 0805
• C3 0,1uF 0603
• R1 10k 0603 Pull-up to 3,3V
• R2 0Ω 0603 “Solder bridge”
• R3 0Ω 0603 “Solder bridge”
• R4 0Ω 0603 “Solder bridge”

When the switch is pressed it ties GPIO0 to GND through R2. This should be done during power up to enter programing mode.

R3 ties CP “CH_PD” to VCC. It should be so except for power down mode.

R4 ties GPIO15 to GND for both normal and programming mode.

This is a two axis brushless gimbal controller board based on Sparky. It uses an F3 processor and can be controlled via a CAN bus from the main flight controller, or used as a standalone gimbal controller. It uses a switching supply to run efficiently and directly from the battery.

Design files can be found on github

SSR Controlled AC Line

Amplifier

Breakout board for 3 & 5 lead D-PAK packages, with pad

ST Microelectronic’s ultra-low-power real time clock coupled with Bosch’s BMP280 pressure and temperature sensor and ST’s M2402DFC 2Mbit EEPROM in an appallingly small add-on board for Teensy 3.1. Power is supplied via digital write to general GPIO pins since the total power requirement never exceeds 2 mA. Communication is via I2C and there are 4K7 pullup resistors on board. The temperature sensor allows the Teensy 3.1 microcontroller to make periodic calibration updates to the RTC calibration register so the clock remains temperature compensated for maximum (~2 ppm or 1 minute a year) accuracy. The clock outputs the usual date, days, hours, minutes, etc. but also outputs tenths of seconds as well as hundredths of a second.The on-board EEPROM is useful for data logging and storing alarm patterns (music) for output to a small speaker. With 2 Mbits (256 kBytes), lots of data can be logged and dozens of alarm sounds can be stored; one for every occasion! Added Taiyo Yuden PAS3225 2.6V 14 mF super capacitor and Comchip low forward voltage Schottky diode to provide power to the RTC time keeper even when disconnected from the microcontroller. The PAS3225 5 microAhour super cap can run the RTC (which needs ~330 nA at 2.6 V) for about 18 hours. Added ST Microelectronics' HTS221 16-bit, ultra-low-power relative humidity sensor. The board is now a tiny weather logging station: pressure, temperature, and humidity can be logged once per minute for 15 days!

Arduino EEPROM Programmer

Relative Temperature Monitor

A 555 timer based circuit kit that blinks an adjustable RGB LED and can drive an external load like a speaker. Frequency and Duty cycle are set by inserting components into the header slots.

Arcade Button Layout

Very simple transistor based oscillator circuit I made from random parts out of my crap bin. Play with the parts values to change frequency. BOTH SIDES MUST MATCH or it will not flash! You can either wire in remote mounted LED’s (such as on alternating wings) or you can use 5mm LED’s directly on the back of the board if you had a use for that, they’ll mount directly in the vias.You can also use threw hole components with some interesting soldering, pretty much any NPN- bipolar transistor will work, you can also use a wide range of values for the R2/R3 and cap sets HOWEVER you need to maintain a similar ratio as found in my example or you can easily get to a flashing rate to fast to perceive. R1 and R4 don’t effect the flash rate.

• R1 & R4 are the set resistors for the brightness of each LED (these two may be mismatched, especially if using different color LED’s)
• R2 & R3 drain the cap’s
• Q1 and Q2 are any NPN BJT’s in an SOT-23 package
• CAP POLARITY IS CRITICAL! CAP’s + goes to LED-
• CAP pads are for 3216 metric (1206) size caps such as Kemet T series. Make sure you’re using minimum 25v rated caps, 10v tantalum caps are VERY common and WILL BLOW, check the datasheet for the letter voltage code if needed!
• Supply with raw 1s to 4s LiPO, can be powered directly from flight pack or even off a 5v pin from your flight controller.

My personal values:

• R1 & R4 = 220ohms
• R2 & R3 = 10K
• total of 44uF each side (using a pair of 22uF’s caps per side)

One final note, remember that on tantalum cap’s are normally marked with the line on + (what the SMD pads are marked for) so if you’re using threw hole cap’s you’ll probably need to ignore that (most threw hole caps have the line on -)

Headlight unit for special version of 3D printed tricopter, uses CARLCO 20mm TIR optic in holder, that gives you lots of choices of beam pattern to suite your flying needs; from spot light “tight” beams of light to a wide diffused even “wall of light” and even an oval beam option optimized for fast forward flight [when orientated vertically].

• JR style servo plug
• Utilizes separate MCPCB for heat wicking from LED
• Simple jumper to select power source (JP1)
• Current selectable also via jumper (JP2), either 350 or 700mAh
• Cree XM-L2 makes 110 or 350Lm (depending on current)

Can be controlled one of three ways

• On anytime 5V is applied (JP1 closed)
• Switched by enable signal (pulled up) from controller, separate 5v source can be constantly supplied (like from BEC), this removes the load from the FC / MCU pin used for remote control (JP1 open)
• PWM’d for brightness control. This requires additional coding and a spare HW PWM pin (JP1 open)

Note tho 700mAh is VERY LOW power for an XM-L2 because there is no physical heatsink it’s highly advised to use a DIRECT THERMAL PATHWAY MCPCB such as a SinkPAD. On top of the DTP for heat a Copper MCPCB will provide a decent bit of mass to more effectively disperse heat into the air. A copper MCPCB should also be reflowed directly to the via matrix for both better heat transfer and a more secure mount for the LED / optic.

Arduino core memory ‘cores’ board from project at http://www.corememoryshield.com/