Shared Projects

Multiplex Radio (Evo / Royal) RF Module, with ARM processor for running Deviation protocol suite.

A breadboard adapter designed by Doug Mercer at ADI for the Digilent Analog Discovery

More info can be found here https://facelesstech.wordpress.com/2016/08/15/light-following-bristle-bot/

More info can be found here https://facelesstech.wordpress.com/2016/12/18/electro_pet/

More info can be found here https://facelesstech.wordpress.com/2016/12/18/electro_pet/

More info can be found here http://www.stuffaboutcode.com/2016/01/pocket-pigrrl-battery-monitor.html

CAN_board

Heater board for the FlashForge Creator Pro 2016 printer. Based on the FFCP HBP PCB Rev J. Created to replace boards that die from bad connectors that melt and delaminate traces (since mine died after about 50 print hours).

Parts List:

• P1: AMP TE 1744037-2 (DigiKey A112698-ND) – I HIGHLY recommend that you use a DigiKey ED1609-ND or similar screw terminal block connector instead, which is rated at 15A. The original connector that FlashForge used, as quoted on this bill-of-materials, is only rated 7.5A and generally fails with a catastrophic meltdown.

• P2: S4B-XH-SM4-TB(LF)(SN) (DigiKey 455-2262-1-ND)

• LED1: Red SMD 1206, such as LTST-C150KRKT (DigiKey 160-1405-1-ND) or similar

• R1: 4.7K SMD 1206 (such as DigiKey RMCF1206FT4K70CT-ND)

• R2: NTC 100K Thermistor SMD 1206, NTHS1206N01N1003JE (DigiKey: 541-1144-1-ND)

• R3: Do not populate

• R4: 1K SMD 1206 (such as DigiKey 311-1.00KFRCT-ND) (May need 1.2K or larger depending on voltage drop and current limits of the LED chosen)

• C1: 0.1uF SMD 1206 ceramic (such as DigiKey 478-3618-1-ND)

Note: Use 1oz copper or thinner. If used with copper that’s too thick, you will overload your printer’s power supply or motherboard. Also, be sure to place a layer of Kapton tape between the PCB and the aluminum plate of your printer. The tape will both help the heat to evenly distribute as well as insulate the interface between the PCB and the aluminum plate and prevent electrical shorts should your PCB’s solder masks develop small scratches or nicks.

Disclaimer: While it’s believed that this design is complete, accurate, and functional. It has not been fully tested for all criteria or safety requirements. And since I can’t control the manufacturing or assembly of this board, I assume no responsibility for any damages or injuries, either direct or incidental, resulting from using this design or boards created from it, including, but not limited to, damage to the printer from circuit problems or to the surroundings from the result of fire or for burns or electrocution of users. This PCB is being provided here as-is as a reference for the hobbyist and do-it-yourselfer only.

As an alternative to replacing your PCB heater, you can also use a Keenovo Silicone Heater. Design Part Number 10452 is the Keenovo part for a 24V 130W unit that fits the FlashForge Creator Pro 2016. For it, you will need an HBP interface board to adapt it to the FlashForge’s MightyBoard Motherboard (i.e. the circuit which is already included on this PCB heater).

V2 Update: 2016/11/12 - Corrected the position of upper pair of mounting holes.

NOTE: This version has a 2mm error in the location of the upper corner mounting holes. This version has been replaced by a new version. Please see: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vK5A9wNY

NOTE: Use https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vK5A9wNY instead!!

Heater board for the FlashForge Creator Pro 2016 printer. Based on the FFCP HBP PCB Rev J. Created to replace boards that die from bad connectors that melt and delaminate traces (since mine died after about 50 print hours).

Parts List:

• P1: AMP TE 1744037-2 (DigiKey A112698-ND) – I HIGHLY recommend that you use a DigiKey ED1609-ND or similar screw terminal block connector instead, which is rated at 15A. The original connector that FlashForge used, as quoted on this bill-of-materials, is only rated 7.5A and generally fails with a catastrophic meltdown.

• P2: S4B-XH-SM4-TB(LF)(SN) (DigiKey 455-2262-1-ND)

• LED1: Red SMD 1206, such as LTST-C150KRKT (DigiKey 160-1405-1-ND) or similar

• R1: 4.7K SMD 1206 (such as DigiKey RMCF1206FT4K70CT-ND)

• R2: NTC 100K Thermistor SMD 1206, NTHS1206N01N1003JE (DigiKey: 541-1144-1-ND)

• R3: Do not populate

• R4: 1K SMD 1206 (such as DigiKey 311-1.00KFRCT-ND) (May need 1.2K or larger depending on voltage drop and current limits of the LED chosen)

• C1: 0.1uF SMD 1206 ceramic (such as DigiKey 478-3618-1-ND)

Note: Use 1oz copper or thinner. If used with copper that’s too thick, you will overload your printer’s power supply or motherboard. Also, be sure to place a layer of Kapton tape between the PCB and the aluminum plate of your printer. The tape will both help the heat to evenly distribute as well as insulate the interface between the PCB and the aluminum plate and prevent electrical shorts should your PCB’s solder masks develop small scratches or nicks.

Disclaimer: While it’s believed that this design is complete, accurate, and functional. It has not been fully tested for all criteria or safety requirements. And since I can’t control the manufacturing or assembly of this board, I assume no responsibility for any damages or injuries, either direct or incidental, resulting from using this design or boards created from it, including, but not limited to, damage to the printer from circuit problems or to the surroundings from the result of fire or for burns or electrocution of users. This PCB is being provided here as-is as a reference for the hobbyist and do-it-yourselfer only.

As an alternative to replacing your PCB heater, you can also use a Keenovo Silicone Heater. Design Part Number 10452 is the Keenovo part for a 24V 130W unit that fits the FlashForge Creator Pro 2016. For it, you will need an HBP interface board to adapt it to the FlashForge’s MightyBoard Motherboard (i.e. the circuit which is already included on this PCB heater).

8052 RTC board with DS12887. This is V1.0 and has not been tested. So use at your own risk.

DaSH PA Arduino shield v2.1

DaSH PA Arduino shield v2.1

This is an as yet untested, reduced version of the BQ2000 evaluation board. I’ve pulled off the jumper pins and greatly simplified the schematic.

I’ve made a few versions of this board so I’m fairly confident this version will work.

Eagle files for this board can be found here.

helios 22113 line amp

mmc1 preamp

RDK sheid v1

Portland Winter Light Festival - Bling Your Thing