Shared Projects by FrankStrasser

special thanks to citrus3000psi and extrems for the original design as well as emu_kidid. This is my version of the sd2sp2 adapter for gamecube with a few changes and upgrades of my own. One is i made the shape slightly different. Two i removed the solder resist from the pins for better conectivity, like a cartridge would have. Lastly, I use a spring loaded connector for the card which i feel holds the card in place better, I dont like the standard holder that is on all the other ones. It’s kind of hard to solder the pins but pin one and 8 dont need solder, just 2-7. The cap is a 22pf 0805 package, the or gate is a sn74ahc1g32dck3 and the connector is a mem2061-01-188-00-a

Order .8mm for best fit. A simple pcb to defeat the cic lockout in a frontloader nes instead of using two wires. this goes on the bottom of the cic chip and the 74hcuo4 ic. The top of the pcb has the traces and no writing that side goes up. On the frontloading nes, locate the cic and 74huoc inverter, the inverter will be to the right and down from the cic. Place this board to where the topmost right hole goes on pin 8 of the cic(it will be the last pin on the top right of the cic) it should line up over pin 7 and 8 of the cic, and pin 1 and 2 of the inverter. Then simply solder the 4 vias in place and done. No need to solder the holes without copper rings on them.

A simple pcb to add s video to your snes jr cleanly. Place the empty multiout holes from the pcb(the holes with no via metal rings) onto the rightmost pins on the snes multiout, there should be 1 row with no connection on the snes to the very left(last row of pins on snes multiout. Only solder the metal via pins on pcb to the snes multiout pins, then run 2 wires from the encoder(pin 12 chroma pin 17 luma) and run it to the right of the motherboard on top and around to the pcb on the back. the big cap is a 3528 tantalum 220uf cap, stripe facing the y pad(stripe is positive). the 3 other components are 0603 package. the resistor on the y line under the y pad is 75 ohm, the cap next to that under the c pad is .1uf, and the resistor closest to the multiout holes is also 75 ohm.

IMPORTANT: Order 1.6mil for the right height when using pin headers. This board goes on TOP of the motherboard. This is an adapter to solder a pluto hdmi board into a gamecube without using lots of wires. First, desolder the digital port like a normal pluto install. Then flush cut the pins on the next connector over so this fits flush across the area. Then fill the holes needed with nice solder blobs so the adapter will fit in place, including the ground pin on the next connector over for support if needed (the hole will line up) then solder pin headers in the adapters white holes long side up, then flush cut and tape the bottom of adapter. Then place the adapter over the holes and flow the holes with solder using a cap leg to help the flow. MAKE SURE the connections all have continuity before placing the pluto hdmi board on top and soldering in. You can also use cap legs in the holes for better connection if needed. You still need to solder one wire into the pluto hdmi board for the controller and for the power this adapter doesnt provide those.

a simple board to reroute the burst on a snes apu version to get rid of the horrible checkerboard pattern while preserving composite and s video. 0805 packages. Remove r59 r5 and c53 from the bottom of the snes and place them on my board or throw away and use fresh components. r59 is 4.7k r5 is 560 ohm c53 is .1uf. the via on my board is ground to be attached to a ground point on the snes and anchored in place on the motherboard top. Lift pin 3 of ppu2 (my board mistakenly says cpu pin 3) for best results. Any questions message me on twitter frankym2612