Shared Projects

NES CHR MaskROM

UPDATED 2016-12-21: Fixed filter calculator links. They now point to a) high pass instead of low pass, and b) T configuration instead of Pi. Sorry for the confustion.

A simple RF Highpass Filter. Component values are dependent on your filter requirements. I made this as an AM broadcast band blocker, cut-off at 1.7MHz. But you can put whatever values you want on it.

This board will work as either Butterworth filter (eg: http://www.calculatoredge.com/electronics/bw%20tee%20high%20pass.htm) or Chebyshev filter (eg: http://www.calculatoredge.com/electronics/ch%20tee%20high%20pass.htm). Put in your cut-off frequency, impedance is probably 50 ohms, and 7 components. (For Chebyshev, you’ll also need to specify the pass-band ripple tolerances.) Then click Calculate, and those are your component values.

This board will take either 1206 SMT capacitors, or .1" radial capacitors. It’s laid out assuming FT37-43 toroids for the inductors, but will probably work with axial pre-made inductors too, they just won’t lay flat on the board. The SMA connectors will take either vertical or edge mounted SMA connectors.

SMD prototyping neighbor for GreatFET Should work; Not tested yet

Design files

Interface Adapter

I2C only version of JAFaR

NES PRG MaskROM

NES GQ PRG Adapter

Info thread for this driver is here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48447

Ok, the idea with these drivers is that I can order them from OSHpark and keep them on hand for any build I may desire.

Warning, this driver is ONLY for 2s2p or 4s setups and it must be setup properly both on the back of the driver and at the tailcap!

The real key feature is the 3 channels combined with bistro and Narsil firmware to give you nearly endless options when it comes to UI.

I find that the single 7135 is a great regulated low mode, even for high powered triples. Also a must for truly low moon modes.

The FET is obviously for turbo and works great at getting the most lumens possible.

The bank of 15 7135’s is where things change from your normal FET+1 setup. This bank allows for a great non-PWM, regulated high mode on most lights and you can simply leave some 7135’s off to adjust it to your exact liking. Or if you need the space leave them all off and you can then clear any retaining ring you may desire.

Here is a feature list

• The latest FET + 7135 circuit that DEL scoped out and improved
• Full copper pour over the board to improve heatsinking of all the components
• 3 fully PWM channels, 1 to a LFPAK56 FET, 1 to a single 7135 on the top of the board and the last goes to a bank of 7135’s on the bottom of the board.
• Lots of edge clearance on the large drivers
• Large LED+ wire pass through, suitable for 20-18 gauge silicone wire, even larger if teflon coated wire.
• Bleeder resistor for lighted tailcaps
• Attiny85 ready.
• Designed for TomE’s Amazing Narsil E-switch firmware
• Toykeepers amazing Bistro firmware can be used if used in a clicky light : http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25/files/head:/ToyKeeper/bistro/
• Thermal management with the bistro firmware!

So now to the Drivers themselves, they are designed around the parts list from DEL.

R1 : 22 k (or 220 k for e-switch lights, like you have been using) R2 : 4.7 k (or 47 k for e-switch lights) R3 : 100 k R4 : 47 ohm R5 : 4.7 ohm BR : Bleeder resistor for lighted tailcaps, varies between 470-630ohm (optional)

C1 : 10 uF C2 : 0.1 uF

Switch: pads for momentary e-switch

U1 : SOIC-8 for the Attiny85, the 13, 25 & 45 also fit on them U2 : LFPAK56 MOSFET (aka, “FET”). PSMN3R0-30YLDX is a popular cheap option, the SIR800DP is better but costs more.

D1 : Schottky Diode SOD-323 Zener : 4.3v SOD-323 Zener diode OPTIONAL and not recomended with e-switch.

7135 : Standard 350ma or 380ma 7135’s can be installed on these pads. I prefer 350ma myself. You will need to clip the center pin of the top side 7135 if you plan to use a bleeder resistor. The 7135’s can be purchased from http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_76&product_id=60 or https://www.fasttech.com/products/1124300

The resistors are all 0805 package (but you can use 0603 if you desire, just have to be more careful when building the driver).

Here is a DigiKey shopping cart with the components I used, there are both better and also cheaper options available if you want to pick out your own, so this is just for reference I like getting a bit tighter tolerance OTC as it can help when things get hot for example).

The items with a quantity of 1 have multiple options that you will need to pick from in the cart. These are the FET’s and MCU. The SIR404 is the better FET but costs over twice the price, the NXP works just fine for most things. The other are the Attiny version that you want. As it stands right now you need the Attiny25 for Bistro and the Attiny85 for Narsil (aka, e-switch). You can also get the MCU/FET from RMM as well for a bit less money. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_104

http://www.digikey.com/short/3hzvd7

Also note that the cart includes both 0805 and 0603 OTC caps, you can remove one if you desire. The 7135’s are not included in this shopping cart as I don’t think digikey sells them, they are best ordered from links above.

The firmware that can be used with this driver is the Bistro Tripledown variation which can be found here: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25/files/head:/ToyKeeper/bistro/

https://s4.postimg.org/nyr04zj4t/bistro_ui.png

The downloads from OSHpark includes the source files for diptrace for anyone that wants to play around with it, along with pictures of the drivers assembled from diptrace to make assembly easier and a schematic for each one.

Here is the schematic that is used for all of them (save for the number of 7135’s of course).

http://i.imgur.com/0fDDPV4.jpg

Info thread for this driver is here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48447

Ok, the idea with these drivers is that I can order them from OSHpark and keep them on hand for any build I may desire.

The real key feature is the 3 channels combined with bistro and Narsil firmware to give you nearly endless options when it comes to UI.

I find that the single 7135 is a great regulated low mode, even for high powered triples. Also a must for truly low moon modes.

The FET is obviously for turbo and works great at getting the most lumens possible.

The bank of 15 7135’s is where things change from your normal FET+1 setup. This bank allows for a great non-PWM, regulated high mode on most lights and you can simply leave some 7135’s off to adjust it to your exact liking. Or if you need the space leave them all off and you can then clear any retaining ring you may desire.

Here is a feature list

• The latest FET + 7135 circuit that DEL scoped out and improved
• Full copper pour over the board to improve heatsinking of all the components
• 3 fully PWM channels, 1 to a LFPAK56 FET, 1 to a single 7135 on the top of the board and the last goes to a bank of 7135’s on the bottom of the board.
• Lots of edge clearance on the large drivers
• Large LED+ wire pass through, suitable for 20-18 gauge silicone wire, even larger if teflon coated wire.
• Bleeder resistor for lighted tailcaps
• Attiny85 ready.
• Designed for TomE’s Amazing Narsil E-switch firmware
• Toykeepers amazing Bistro firmware can be used if used in a clicky light : http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25/files/head:/ToyKeeper/bistro/
• Thermal management with the bistro firmware!

So now to the Drivers themselves, they are designed around the parts list from DEL.

R1 : 22 k (or 220 k for e-switch lights, like you have been using) R2 : 4.7 k (or 47 k for e-switch lights) R3 : 100 k R4 : 47 ohm R5 : 4.7 ohm BR : Bleeder resistor for lighted tailcaps, varies between 470-630ohm (optional)

C1 : 10 uF C2 : 0.1 uF

Switch: pads for momentary e-switch

U1 : SOIC-8 for the Attiny85, the 13, 25 & 45 also fit on them U2 : LFPAK56 MOSFET (aka, “FET”). PSMN3R0-30YLDX is a popular cheap option, the SIR800DP is better but costs more.

D1 : Schottky Diode SOD-323 Zener : 4.3v SOD-323 Zener diode OPTIONAL and not recomended with e-switch.

7135 : Standard 350ma or 380ma 7135’s can be installed on these pads. I prefer 350ma myself. You will need to clip the center pin of the top side 7135 if you plan to use a bleeder resistor. The 7135’s can be purchased from http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_76&product_id=60 or https://www.fasttech.com/products/1124300

The resistors are all 0805 package (but you can use 0603 if you desire, just have to be more careful when building the driver).

Here is a DigiKey shopping cart with the components I used, there are both better and also cheaper options available if you want to pick out your own, so this is just for reference I like getting a bit tighter tolerance OTC as it can help when things get hot for example).

The items with a quantity of 1 have multiple options that you will need to pick from in the cart. These are the FET’s and MCU. The SIR404 is the better FET but costs over twice the price, the NXP works just fine for most things. The other are the Attiny version that you want. As it stands right now you need the Attiny25 for Bistro and the Attiny85 for Narsil (aka, e-switch). You can also get the MCU/FET from RMM as well for a bit less money. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_104

http://www.digikey.com/short/3hzvd7

Also note that the cart includes both 0805 and 0603 OTC caps, you can remove one if you desire. The 7135’s are not included in this shopping cart as I don’t think digikey sells them, they are best ordered from links above.

The firmware that can be used with this driver is the Bistro Tripledown variation which can be found here: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25/files/head:/ToyKeeper/bistro/

https://s4.postimg.org/nyr04zj4t/bistro_ui.png

The downloads from OSHpark includes the source files for diptrace for anyone that wants to play around with it, along with pictures of the drivers assembled from diptrace to make assembly easier and a schematic for each one.

Here is the schematic that is used for all of them (save for the number of 7135’s of course).

http://i.imgur.com/0fDDPV4.jpg

Pendelautomatik för en eller två riktningar

Wemos D1 Mini shield for connecting up to two HC-SR04 ultrasonic distance sensors. Includes logic level shifting both ways.

Version 1.0

SENSE1 tested and verified. SENSE2 untested.

Issue: hole spacing is not 0.1" as intended for SENSE2 connection, so the intended JST PH-4 header will not work. Wires may still be soldered directly to the board.

EAGLE files available at https://github.com/aaronjasso/HC-SR04--x2--WeMos-D1-Mini-Shield

A cheap color OSD for FPV pilots.

This is a development board.

Small PCB that lets you connect 3.5mm jack or phono (with adapter) to Extron’s matrix switcher series easily. The connectors usually used for Extron’s inputs are still needed, and will be tightened to tabs soldered to pads at the top of the board. The jumper should be shorted when used for inputs.

mbed CI Test Shield v1.0.1 - DIY Edition

mbed CI Test Shield v1.0.1

This is a breakout board for 34 pin 5.25" floppy drive edge connectors. It has labled pinouts for Shugart drives. It should also work for IBM drives, but the pinout labels will be different.

Schematic, Bill of Materials and Test Code at: https://github.com/mike-rankin/ESP8266-E12_Color_Oled

Assembly instructions -order the components on the parts list, follow the parts placement map and use the test sketches located here: https://0miker0.wordpress.com/esp8266-color-oled/ hand stuff the components, solder on the oled display but do not tape it down yet.

-connect the board to the Arduino IDE, pick the Adafruit Hazzah as the board, choose the right com port and load in one of the example sketches that I’ve modified for this hardware.

https://youtu.be/wIoibrByEOk

A socket for using and programming ESP8266 V1.

removed silk errors