Shared Projects

NicoLase BNC shield for Arduino Uno

use on our own Risk. Mostly untested. Licences CC BY-NC-SA 4.0

The Lynx was a British Z80 micro from the early 1980s.

This is a recreation of the Floppy Disk Controller. To use this you will need the Lynx DOS interface, and connect this controller to the interface using a 26-pin ribbon connector that connects to SKT1.

SKT2 is a standard 34-pin Shugart interface that can connect to a 5.25 or 3.5 floppy disk, or an HxC or a Gotek.

Tesxas instruments DRV2306

ATSAM4S16B Dev Board

Pew Pew

STM8 IR Transmitter

USB backpack for 5 digit Panel Ammeter. See github repository for details and BoM.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_oD31aJcmmxpK8WVgVNw_JFTv0BpG41Z/view?usp=sharing

16mm pitch power distribution board for positronic dragonfly04 connectors

Schematic: https://www.phys.hawaii.edu/~mza/PCB/misc/dragonfly04-rail.revE.schematic.pdf

A replacement button board for 2000-2006 Honda Insight instrument clusters. The frequently-used stock buttons tend to break and stop working, making it no longer possible to use the trip meters or reset the maintenance light once it comes on.

You need two boards per cluster, and OSHPark sells them in threes, so you’re golden. You’ll have to file off the tabs left by the manufacturing process to ensure a proper fit in the cluster. Make sure you get standard board thickness (1.6mm), not 0.8mm!

This board should fit any 6.2x6.2mm j-lead tactile switch, but is intended specifically for C&K’s KSC4 line. The CTS 222K line is also directly compatible.

I’m using the KSC403J50SHLFG because it meets the below requirements and was in stock at the time of submitting this. Less ideal but acceptable alternatives are C&K KSC401J50SHLFS or CTS 222KJVAAR.

You’ll need to take the wire harness off the stock boards. The pins are close enough together that this is easy to do by adding a bunch of solder and heating all three pins with your iron at once, then pulling the harness out.

Tact requirements/nice-to-haves:

• Top of the actuator must be no more than 6.5mm off the board (stock buttons are 5mm tall, for reference)

• For longest life, the button should be dust/waterproof (IP65-68)

• The tact should ideally have a silicone actuator, so when you’re pressing the buttons, you’re not accidentally putting undue stress on them. It also feels nicer.

• Actuation force should be around 1.6N/160gf (a pretty standard value), this feels like a bit more than stock. I tested a 2.25N button and it was a little too much, in my opinion.

• The tact should have a minimum current less than or equal to 500uA (the cluster uses a 10k pullup to 5V). This isn’t critical, but you will technically get fewer cycles out of the button if you have less than the minimum current going through it since oxidation can build up. This shouldn’t realistically be an issue - if your tact is rated for 1 million cycles and you get 10% of that, you could press the button 10 times a day and it’d still last almost 30 years.

Lets you replace the dpad in your GBC or GBA with a 3DS circle pad! You can also solder different joysticks directly if you’re not using a circle pad.

Board files and firmware here - https://github.com/orangeglo/CircleBoy

V/A Panel Meter Backpack. Cleans up wiring and mounts on the panel meter. See github repository for BoM and assembly details.

ExLRS Nano Rx PCB with smaller thermal relief pad.