TVS Diode: ESD5Z5.0T1G

JP1 - Short for onboard flashing.

JP2 Open - Non Attenuated CSYNC

JP2 Closed - 75Ohm Attenuated CSYNC

Gain reduction board for the Saleae Logic Pro

viewerscreen breakout v4

bnc ground isolator

PCB for the project described here: https://eax.me/electronic-dice/. Source code: https://github.com/afiskon/avr-electronic-dice.

`````IC1: ATtiny85

C1: 10 uF

S1: button

S2: switch

R1-R4: 220 Ohm

R5: 10KOhm

D1-13: 5 mm LEDs

Power source: 3-5V, e.g. an CR2032 battery

https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/tree/master/projects/rroll

V4 of the Calculator PCB (No Top Soldermask). Source files at https://github.com/charliebruce/calcuclock-hw

RPUlux

Controller board with six AL8805 constant current drivers connected to PWM pins of an ATmega328p. Analog channels ADC0, ADC1, and ADC2. ADC0 and ADC1 also have an N-CH MOSFET that may be used to sink a few amps of current. Two 22mA current source for various task. ADC6 measures input voltage (7 thru 36V DC) and ADC7 measures input current. SHLD_VIN that can power a shield may be disabled with IO2 (so it can power off a Pi Zero on the RPUpi shield)

GitHub Forum HackADay

This board is one of a set for the Laser Battle Bot project.

Second in a set of PCBs for the Laser Battle Bot Project

SSD1309 I2C connection

LED moved away from the power jack location

Please see description here https://hackaday.io/project/20424/components

Details are here:

https://www.openhardware.io/view/316/RFM69-Serial-GW-ATMEGA328P

Simple interface to run my Anet A8 using ESP3D and an ESP-01 module. A TTL gate keeps startup serial data out of the printer. Requires removing 2 zero ohm resistors and installing a 6 pin header on the Anet controller in the BLE/USB position. You will also need to add code to the ESP3D sketch’s setup() function to set GPIO 0 as an output and write a logic LOW to that pin in order to enable transmit data to go out of the ESP-01 to the printer. This board should plug in to the connector next to the LCD connector. Power should be taken from the 12v board power (or a separate wall-wart might be used). I wasn’t sure if the on-board regulators would handle the extra load of an ESP8266.

Later edit, after getting boards built and tested: Going from 12v to 3.3v generates a lot of heat. I recommend to either use an external 5v supply (not 12v) or replace the regulator at U1 with a Recom R-78E3.3-1.0 (though the pinout will be different!! Watch how you wire it!)

License: Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Board and schematic (eagle format) are at https://github.com/telanoc/anet_esp3d_board

The power switch in this one is backwards. Down is Off, Up is On If you want a better version, use this one: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/OSfM0RLN

Adapter Maskrom 36 pin Snes Cartridge M27C322 16 bit conversão 8 bit 2 IC 74lS245+74lS139 SMD

M27C322 DIP 42 - Maskrom DIP 36 Snes 2 X IC 74LS257