Shared Projects by ziggy587

NOT TESTED!

This is a TSOP adapter that is meant to install on the backside of a 36-pin SNES mask ROM. You do not have to remove the mask ROM, just clip the /OE pin and tie it high.

For a 32Mb game, use two 29F160 flash chips along with a 74'00 TSOP, leave J1 open.

For a 24Mb game, you should be able to use a 29F160 for U1 and a 29F800 for U2. It still needs the 74'00 and J1 open.

For a 16Mb game or smaller, use a single TSOP (29F160, 29F800, 29F400) chip in the U1 position, do not install the 74'00, close J1.

C1, C2 and C3 are 0.01μF 0603 capacitors.

I think 0.8mm board thickness would be the better choice.

Possible problems…

J1 may give you errors if you upload this to another board house. It meets OSH Park’s DRC, but has overlap issues that you can ignore. This footprint is meant to be closed with a solder blob, but it has not yet been tested. If it gives you any issues, use a small bit of wire to close it.

Because there is one TSOP on each side of this adapter board, it cannot sit flush on the bottom of a mask ROM like you normally would want it to. Since this is not tested, it is unknown if the legs of the mask ROM are long enough to be able to solder it. I think they might be just long enough for this to not be an issue. But if it’s a problem, I plan on using 22 AWG solid core wire to bridge the gap.

Please use responsibly.

NOT TESTED!

This is a TSOP adapter that is meant to replace the mask ROM on a SNES cart.

For a 32Mb game, use two 29F160 flash chips along with a 74'00 TSOP. Leave J1 open. For a 24Mb game, you should be able to use a 29F160 for U1 and a 29F800 for U2.

For a 16Mb game or smaller, use a single TSOP (29F160, 29F800, 29F400) chip in the U1 position, do not install the 74'00, and you must close J1.

C1, C2 and C3 are 0.01μF 0603 capacitors.

For J1, you should be able to close it with a solder blob. It’s a standard 0805 pad size, so you could alternatively use a 0 ohm 0805 or 0603 resistor if you wish.

Use standard 2.54mm single row pin headers.

Please use responsibly.

Rev.C is not tested! So far only Rev.B has been tested with an 8Mb game on a 29F800 in a 32-pin socket, and it was found to work. It should work fine with a 29F160 since the only difference is one additional address pin.

This adapter installs on the backside of a SNES mask ROM. You must cut or isolate the /OE pin on the mask ROM and tie it to Vcc.

This adapter is made to work on both 32-pin and 36-pin mask ROM sockets. If using on a 32-pin socket, you will most likely have to cut off the 4 pins for clearance. You could score both sides with a utility knife or X-Acto blade and then snap it off, or use small flush cutters.

If you are using a 29F160 on a 32-pin socket, you will have to use a jumper wire for A20.

J1 connects /OE from the mask ROM socket to the TSOP chip. If you are only using a single TSOP chip, then you must close J1. If you leave J1 open, then you can use the /OE solder pad on this adapter to connect the /OE pin of the TSOP to where ever you need it.

J1 is a new jumper pad footprint that has not been tested yet, but hopefully works fine.

C1 is for an 0603 0.1µF decoupling capacitor.

Don’t forget to isolate the bottom of the adapter to prevent shorts.

Revision History:

Rev.C 1. Changed J1 from 0603 to new (untested) jumper pad (updated tolerance) 2. Cleaned up some traces and various tolerances 3. Enlarged silkscreen indicators from 32 to 40 4. Added Vcc via to C1 pad, removed extra vias 5. Moved /OE solder pad, more clearance from surrounding vias.

Rev.B 1. Widened cutouts around pins 1, 2, 35, 36 2. Added more ground and Vcc plane area 3. Changed DIP socket to round holes with larger drill size . 4. Added silkscreen identifiers for DIP pins on read side.

NOT TESTED

This is a smaller through hole version of the PCB found here: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/1MLgG0ho

BOM and other info can be found in the above link.

This is a simple circuit that will turn on an ATX power supply using a momentary switch. I made this specifically to use an AT style motherboard in an ATX case, however, you could use this generically in any case that you want to turn an ATX PSU on/off using a momentary switch.

The mounting hole is sized to fit a 6-32 screw so that you can mount the board using a standard motherboard standoff.

I’m using one of those common AT-to-ATX power adapters, which already breaks out the COM and PS_ON wires. If using one of these adapters, you will most likely have to add a pin/wire for the +5VSB signal.

This is an updated version of the PCB found here: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/h6LgDD3k

I have added LED status lights. LED1 is to indicate standby, and will light when there’s a +5VSB signal. LED2 is to indicate that the PSU has been turned on, and will light when you press the switch and the circuit pulls PS_ON low.

This has been bench tested and found to work as intended. It has also been used with a baby AT motherboard and ATX power supply for several hours and found to work as intended. However, as always, use at your own risk.

The latching circuit was taken from a post found on Stack Exchange. More info can be found here: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/186841/momentary-button-as-switch

• U1 - 74LVC2G04 (SOT-23-6)
• R1 - 1 k ohm (0805)
• R2 - 100 k ohm (0805)
• R3 - 10 k ohm (0805)
• C1 - 100 nF (0805)
• C2 - 10 nF (0805)

R4 and R5 are both 0805, be sure to chose values that respect that max current output of the 74LVC2G04.

LED1 and LED2 have pads for 3mm through hole or 0805 surface mount parts. Use either surface mount or through hole, not both. The through hole LED footprints are for 3mm, but 5mm will also fit. You can simply omit R4, R5 and the LEDs if you do not wish to use them.

There is a mistake with the LED silkscreen, the line to indicate the flat side of the LED bulb is on the wrong side. When placing the LED, be sure to place the flat side or cathode side opposite of the silkscreen line.

Use standard 2.54mm single row pin headers for PWR_SW, this is what an ATX style computer case will use for its power switch.

You can also use 2.54mm pin headers for the +5VSB, COM and PS_ON signals, but I found it to be annoying due to the weight of those wires. I ended up using a 3-pin JST-XH connector here, they are also 2.54mm but more secure since they snap it.

I consider this version to be deprecated, but will leave it up in case anyone needs it. An updated version can be found here: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/f07pnuO2