Shared Projects by WarHawk-AVG

Sanguinololu reprap board rev1.3a

2 layer board of 4x2 inches (102x51mm). $40.00 for three.

Sanguinololu is a low-cost all-in-one electronics solution for Reprap and other CNC devices. It features an onboard Sanguino clone using the ATmega644P though a 644, 1284 or 1284P is easily dropped in. Its four axes are powered by Pololu pin compatible stepper drivers. The board is designed to be flexible in its power source, working with a 12V/5V ATX power supply or any 7V-35V power source via the on-board voltage regulator.

Sanguinololu reprap board rev1.3a

http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu

but in OSHPark purple ;)

TwinTeethPickupDriverV3.3

2 layer board of 1.97x1.97 inches (50x50mm). $19.45 for three.

Diyouware TwinTeeth: The PCB mini-factory : Project page

TwinTeeth: The PCB Mini-Factory Youtube video

CNC-Pro-Shield-V3.00

Arduino CNC Shield – 100% GRBL Compatable

• Details at link above

2 layer board of 2.72x2.12 inches (69x54mm). $28.70 for three

Bill Of Materials

• Arduino CNC Shield PCB

• 100uF 50v 8mm High Capacitors ( 493-3289-ND )

• Jumpers ( A26228-ND )

• 8-Pin Female Headers( S7006-ND )

• Male Headers( A26514-40-ND )

• Tactile Switch ( 450-1650-ND )

• Screw Terminal 5mm ( A97996-ND)

• Pololu Stepper Drivers . (Please note that the shield was designed to work with A4988 compatable polulu drivers)

• 10K pull-up resistors

truzzi 3-channel, high power RGB LED driver V1.0

2 layer board of 1.04x1.4 inches (27x36mm). $7.30 for three.

C1, C2, C3: 22uF tantalum capacitors (DigiKey part number: 399-3781-1-ND)
D1, D2, D3; Schottky diode 2A SMA package  (DigiKey part number: B240A-FDICT-ND)
L1, L2, L3: 68uH power inductor, 0.7A (DigiKey part number: PCD2117CT-ND)
R1, R2, R3: 0.33ohm resistors, 0805 package.
4x screw terminals, 3.5mm (bought mine on Tayda Electronics)
3x PT4115 drivers.  
1x 4-pin + 1x 2-pin male or female headers.

PT4115

truzzi ATX PSU Breakout Mini V1.0

All SMD parts are 0805 or bigger

C1, C3: 0.1uF 0805 SMD capacitors.
C2: 1uF 0805 SMD capacitor.
F1, F2, F3, F4, F5: 1812 SMD PTC resettable fuses. (Littelfuse ones should work just fine, I used Bourns instead which are a bit larger).
J1: 24-pin ATX connector. I bought mine from Sparkfun but RS also sells them.
JP1: 3-pin header (for voltmeter output)
JP2: 6-pin header (for breadboard output, fused)
LED1, LED2, LED3, LED4, LED5, LED6: 0805 SMDs, choose the color you want but make sure to use appropriate resistors. You may not want full brightness and sure you don’t want magic smoke.
R1, R2, R11, R12, R15: 3.3K ohm, 0805.
R3: 330 ohm, 0805 (value may change – double check LM317 voltages).
R16: 10k ohm, 0805.
R6: 9/10W power resistor, not needed in my case.
R14: 1.2k ohm, 0805.
T1, T2, T3, T4, T5, T6: binding posts with 4mm hole. You may want some red ones for the positive lines and a black one for GND.
U1: LM-317, through hole. There should be enough space for a heatsink.
U2: TPS2513 from Texas Instruments. If you don’t have them, look up the datasheet and solder appropriate resistors on D+ and D- pins of the USB ports.
X1, X2: USB female connectors, through hole.

2 layer board of 3.95x3.94 inches (100x100mm). $77.65 for three.