Shared Projects by WarHawk-AVG

The Anti-Gravitator by reparator

2 layer board of 3.17x3.17 inches (80.44x80.44mm). $50.10 for three.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:943091

PCB Heatbead for Home Etching by triffid_hunter, published Sep 7, 2011

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11305

I saw prusa’s excellent heated bed, but the dimension was too large for the blank stock I had available, and there were too many narrow traces for an easy home etch, so I designed a different one.

Dimensions are 200x200mm, hole centers are 190mm apart.

Design resistance is 0.95 ohms. Etch from 1oz (36um) copper to get this resistance.

Gives 150w from a 12v source, and consumes 12.5A.

I’ve had my bed up to 140°C before, and didn’t want to take it higher for fear of cracking my glass or damaging the FR4 PCB material.

2 layer board of 7.89x7.89 inches (200.41x200.41mm). $311.25 for three.

Stepper Motor - Series Connected Splitter Board

2 layer board of 0.53x0.72 inches (13.51x18.16 mm) - $1.90

Got the idea from HERE

Found a series stepper motor splitter design HERE and you see the result. He is selling them but shipping prices from NZ make it cost prohibitive especially for DIY'ers. Discussion HERE Further Discussions

Per the above site, this board allows you to connect the steppers in SERIES providing the full driver current and ensuring maximum torque at nominally low z-axis speeds.

I made sure the traces were thick and on both sides to handle high current

BOM:

2x 455-2249-ND

1x 455-2243-ND

AlxSmith JouleThief - WarHawk Tweak

Original share here

Same design, I just made the traces larger, made the holes VIA’s (battery holder is rock solid now and doesn’t rip traces off the board so easily), and shrank the board a bit to fit the overall size of the AA holder, and a few minor cosmetic tweaks

Schematic shows BC548 transistors, but you can also use PN2222A transistors you just have to put them in backwards as the B/C/E is reverse from the BC548’s (thus the labeling of the BCE on the board)

The thruhole design makes the retention of the components MUCH stronger than the original design that relies upon just the copper pour for keeping the traces on the board, I have built 6 of these, they run for 7~ days on a fresh battery, and over 3 days on a .9vdc (considered dead) battery at enough light to see fairly well by

Kudo’s to Alex Smith on his original design

BOM:

R1, R3 = 1K 1/4W RESISTORS - CF14JT1K00CT-ND

R2 = 2K2 1/4W RESISTOR - CF14JT2K20CT-ND

L1 = FIXED INDUCTOR SMD MOUNT 470uH - 595-1353-1-ND

C1 = 470PF CERAMIC CAP - BC2681CT-ND

C2 = 100uF ALUMINUM CAP - 399-6600-ND or any stumpy 100uf capacitor stumpy C2

TRANSISTORS = BC548 or if mounted backwards PN2222A - BC548BTACT-ND or PN2222AD26ZCT-ND

LED and LED HOLDER = HIGHEST Millicandela Rated 5MM ROUND DOME LED YOU CAN FIND, AND HOLDER TO MAKE IT LOOK CLEAN ON THE BOARD

BATTERY HOLDER = 1CELL AA PC MNT - 36-2460-ND

Gen7 Board-ARM v2.0

A well documented DIY ARM based reprap 3D printer controller board

• LPC1114FN28 MCU, a 32-bit ARM CortexM0+.
• Onboard USB-serial adapter, implemented with an MCP2200.
• Support for up to 4 stepper drivers in the “Pololu format”.
• Support for extruder and heated bed.
• Support for two SPI devices (e.g. SD card and display).
• Support for always-on fans (5, 7 or 12 volts).
• No power supply wiring neccessary, just plug an unmodified ATX supply in and be ready.
• Software power on/off.
• Oversized high current tracks and MOSFETs for reliable, cool operations.
• Board size 110 x 90 mm.

2 layer board of 4.35x3.56 inches (111x91mm). $77.50 for three.