Shared Projects

(This version of the board has not been tested)

An adapter board for hooking up joysticks to a 837-13551-92 [JVS I/O Control Board Type 1], should also work with any I/O board that happens to share the same 60 pin Digital I/O connector with the same pinout (such as the 837-14572 [JVS I/O Control Board Type 3]).

This version of the board, with a flat ribbon cable, allows the cable to run between the boards ‘back to back’ (as the 60 pin connector faces the opposite direction as the 837-13551-92’s relative to the board). A version of this board with the same functionality, but a flipped 60 pin connector can be found at: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/lR9aERng

This board has plugs for a +5v and +12v monitor, they are not required. There is also a 2nd plug for a +5v out, intended for use with a modified USB cable to power a Pi. On the 2 pin connectors Pin 1 is output and Pin 2 is ground. The resistor on the board connects between +5v and the coin meter pins on the 60 pin connector to spoof the existence of coin meters for games that require it. The push buttons on the board are provided for ease of access to test/service/coin inputs, they do not need to be populated.

The board was designed to fit the following parts:

1. All plugs are 2.5mm pitch, designed for JST XH plugs.
2. The DB-15 connectors were designed for Amphenol’s L717SDA15PA4CH4F
3. The push buttons were designed for TE Connectivity’s ALCOSWITCH Switches (1825910-6)
4. The 60 pin connector was designed for TE Connectivity’s 60 Pin AMP connector (1-5102321-1)

The DB-15 plugs use the wiring that should be found on most Superguns: http://www.thesupergun.com/electrical/standard-supergun-controller-wiring-diagram/

In case the site cannot be reached the wiring is as follows:

1. GND
2. Button 6
3. Coin
4. Button 4
5. Button 2
6. Right
7. Down
8. +5v
9. NC
10. Button 5
11. Start
12. Button 3
13. Button 1
14. Left
15. Up

(This version of the board has been tested with a 837-13551-92 and a Naomi system)

An adapter board for hooking up joysticks to a 837-13551-92 [JVS I/O Control Board Type 1], should also work with any I/O board that happens to share the same 60 pin Digital I/O connector with the same pinout (such as the 837-14572 [JVS I/O Control Board Type 3]).

This version of the board, with a flat ribbon cable, requires the cable runs over-top one of the boards (as the 60 pin connector faces the same direction as the 837-13551-92’s relative to the board). A version of this board with the same functionality, but a flipped 60 pin connector can be found at: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/RW61aIl2

This board has plugs for a +5v and +12v monitor, they are not required. There is also a 2nd plug for a +5v out, intended for use with a modified USB cable to power a Pi. On the 2 pin connectors Pin 1 is output and Pin 2 is ground. The resistor on the board connects between +5v and the coin meter pins on the 60 pin connector to spoof the existence of coin meters for games that require it. The push buttons on the board are provided for ease of access to test/service/coin inputs, they do not need to be populated.

The board was designed to fit the following parts:

1. All plugs are 2.5mm pitch, designed for JST XH plugs.
2. The DB-15 connectors were designed for Amphenol’s L717SDA15PA4CH4F
3. The push buttons were designed for TE Connectivity’s ALCOSWITCH Switches (1825910-6)
4. The 60 pin connector was designed for TE Connectivity’s 60 Pin AMP connector (1-5102321-1)

The DB-15 plugs use the wiring that should be found on most Superguns: http://www.thesupergun.com/electrical/standard-supergun-controller-wiring-diagram/

In case the site cannot be reached the wiring is as follows:

1. GND
2. Button 6
3. Coin
4. Button 4
5. Button 2
6. Right
7. Down
8. +5v
9. NC
10. Button 5
11. Start
12. Button 3
13. Button 1
14. Left
15. Up

Teensy Breakout v2 to support add on boards with a common Contextual Electronics (CE) header on top of Teensy 3.2. Fix solder mask issue.

SensorBoard v2 to test the CE Header. Fix solder mask issue.

Adapter between 10 pin Silabs compatible EC-6 Debug Adapter and TBMon’s 4 pin programming header

The Jasper’s digital noise circuit is clocked by the keyboard scanner clock. This is fast enough to produce a natural sounding white noise.

This PCB will fit in the IC34 (the CD4006) socket and allow an alternate clock signal to be connected to the digital noise. A suitable source would be Oscillator 2’s square wave output after R99. This will create a raspy 80s computer explosion texture for the noise that will scale along the keyboard. (The Jasper LFO doesn’t go fast enough to achieve the main effect here.)

Fitting an SPDT switch will allow selection between the original noise clock and the alternate clock signal.

Noise clock install

Use double-sided turned pin headers to mount this board to the main Jasper PCB.

Side view

If keeping a socket on the Jasper PCB and using a socket for the 4006 on this PCB, space under the panel is very tight. The official BOM suggests 17mm spacers and depending on your IC sockets, the board may not fit underneath the panel.

I used 18mm spacers so everything fits tightly but remains removable.

MicroGPS on GMS-g6a corrected version

ARM Audio DSP board. Details here: http://ebrombaugh.studionebula.com/synth/stm32f4_codec_v2/index.html

Example board fpr PGA2311/CS3310 2ch chips

USB Version of MotorIMU Board

8 leds and 8 buttons

This is version 1.1 USB-A of the FelinæPurr.

FelinæPurr (you can also write it FelinaePurr if your keyboard does not allow you to make that nice character) is a COMLynx compatible device. The COMLynx is the name of the Atari Lynx cable to connect two Lynx together. As the Lynx use RS232 protocol for that connector, it’s also the name of devices that allow to connect your Lynx with your computer.

This is an OSHW project, and more information can be found on the github page: https://github.com/986-Studio/FelinaePurr

8 channel ICP signal conditioner

A low voltage (12v DC) all-tube (12DS7) headphone amp described by Ron Quan and laid out (and enhanced a bit) by Mark Smith, @SmittyHalibut.

There was a category of vacuum tubes called “space charge tubes” which were designed to provide usable power at 12v DC for use in automobiles. The 12DS7 is one such type of tube, another common one being the 12K5 (*).

This design is an all-tube (no “hybrid” FET after the tube, as is common) using these unique space-charge tubes, headphone amplifier that provides useful power into at least 50 ohms impedance (the higher the better) requiring no high voltage as is usually needed for power tubes.

Components are as marked on the board. Use good quality 1% resistors, more for matching between left and right than because of the precise values.

The four 1uF caps that have “3 pins.” Those are just flexible outlines, so you can use 2.5mm or 5.0mm pin spacing on the 1uF caps. The square pad is always used, the two round pads are tied together.

The 12DS7 tubes can be found in a variety of places for about $5 each, such as: Tube Depot, or The Tube Store, or search on eBay for “12DS7 Tube.”

The volume pot can be any of: - Alps RK27 “Blue Velvet” audiophile pots. - Alps RK097 “Green Blob” cheap-but-still-pretty-good pots. - Any of the common .2" spaced dual-gang cheap pots. Luckily, there are good, inexpensive stepped attenuators in the same form factor.

Headphone connector is a Neutrik NRJ6HF.

The PopStopper components are the same as on my PopStopper page : Relay, and TL7700. (And I’m just now noticing that I screwed up on the IC outline on this board too. You’ll have to fold the pins under the TL7700 to make it fit on this outline. Sorry about that.)

(*) Note that the 12K5 is NOT a plug-in replacement for the 12DS7, but it should be a very similar ELECTRICAL replacement. So if you decide to use a 12K5 or similar instead of the 12DS7, you’ll need to wire it differently into the tube socket on the board. But no other modifications should be necessary.