As a lot of you know. This is something that I designed long, long ago. The SNES 16 Bitter will translate a 27C322 (32mbit) 16-bit eeprom down to communicate over an 8-bit wide bus. There ARE NO fitment instructions! This is strictly DIY! I recommend that you put this on the thinnest substrate you possibly can as there’s virtually zero room for error/clearance. .6mm thickness will do “OK”, but ideally you’d send these off to be routed on a .4mm PCB. Do NOT use OSHPARK for these, .8mm is TOO thick! I handle both of the enables by ORing them through a 132 NAND gate to completely mitigate any bus conflicts. BOM and component map can be found within the ZIP file, in addition to the license.

Good luck!

This was supposedly hosted on RetroRGB.com, but is no longer available there. I’m placing it here. Component map & BOM are included within the ZIP file.

CORRECTION - ONLY 1 UX60-MB-598 IS REQUIRED. NOT 2 AS THE COMPONENT MAP SUGGESTS!!

See ZIP file for license, readme & component map/BOM

If the cost of production is too expensive, please download the Gerbers and take them elsewhere.

My Champions,

This is something that I put together a long time ago, but never had the time to support, therefore, it hasn’t been released. Until now! I’m giving the Double Penetration SD away to the community, absolutely for free. This is “fairly” well polished. There were a couple of things that I wanted to do a little differently, but from an analog video perspective, this is 100% rock solid. This isn’t “polished” enough by my own standards to sell in production, but it’s a fine enthusiast project with fairly sound engineering.

Here are a couple of things to note:

There are two different clamping elements for the sync input.

The sync output that is driven into the DVI (capture card) is always shaped to a logic level, there’s nothing that you need to do. Regardless if the system you’re pairing this device with is using CVBS, LUMA, 75Ω C-Sync or even TTL C-Sync. Everything should get along, just fine.

The sync output that is driven into the SCART-F output is NOT shaped to logic level, but is buffered via the 4th channel of the 7374 and is termination ready & friendly for all consumer grade devices. This means that you get the benefit of 100% compatibility with your Datapath capture, all while having an untampered with sync-signal that’s driving into your monitor or capture-card on the SCART output.

I’ve designed this so that SDTV component video is 100% compliant and supported. If you want to use component cables, just buy an RCA to SCART plug adapter and stick it into the SCART input, it will work just fine and the Datapath will not give you any trouble. https://goo.gl/DjjnSN

The component map attached is fairly self-explanatory. Try to use 5% resistors. The 2 1206 4.7uF caps by the USB port I accidentally rotated in the wrong direction, hence the lines through the footprints to show the proper orientation. This is the DVI connector that I like to use is: https://goo.gl/F9ti8Q - The 3 lug switch is generic, and should accommodate most types. On the 4 corners of the board, I have milled out M3 sized stand-offs. You can use stand-offs, or even make a little case for this thing if you’d like. Also, OSHPARK has difficult with cutting slots. The milled ports that the SCART connector’s supposed to fit into, make sure whatever board-house you use understands that those should be fully routed out.

Well, that about does it. I hope someone can get some good use out of this.

                                               My Best,

                                           Lord Adm. Voultar

I designed this board to address some of the problems with the Super SD System 3’s video section. This is NOT a guaranteed fix for every individual’s specific issue and should only be considered as a community driven WIP. I’m only one person, and are unable to fully explore every unique corner case. But this is the right start. This board can NOT be installed in any other PC-E device. This is designed exclusively for use with SSDS3 hardware. The FU-RGB will support both V1 and V2 board revisions but documentation will only cover V2 boards, as of now. The only requirement for installing the FU-RGB board into a V2 SSDS3 is to short the “V2” jumper. All of the video (including C-Sync) is properly buffered and shaped to perfectly interface with Genesis 2 SCART cables, including HD Retrovision cables.

Composite Video is also being properly driven, if you so desire it.

You can SAFELY use Genesis 2 SCART cables that do not attenuate the C-Sync output (resistor in the cable).

Please use this PCB map for BOM & assembly: https://i.imgur.com/sr1ymz7.png

The THS7374 driver has been omitted from the BOM, but it’s very much required.

Instructions for installing the FU-RGB will not be provided, as of now.

Order PCB with .8mm thickness.

Fully tested and working. I designed this a long time ago and haven’t had an opportunity to offer it to people. So now I’m offering to anyone and everyone. Please see the picture for part placement and BOM. The ADSK to PCDSK switch may not work with all FDD units, meaning modification to standard PC FDD’s may still be required. Works great with real drives and Goteks!

All passive components are 0805.

Link to part placement & BOM :

https://i.imgur.com/dE0UnPZ.png