Shared Projects by Telanoc

Stupid little board to allow a Sunon MF40100V1-1000U-F99 fan, which has a good/fail output, to replace a -G99 type, which has a tachometer output. The ATTiny looks for the fan’s pin to be low, and if it’s low it sends pulses back to the Einsy. Why? Because I have some -F99 fans but want to put a good Sunon fan in my Prusa I3 Mk3. The Prusa will think the fan failed without some tachometer pulses. Plus, this gives it that one more thing to go wrong. U1 is an ATtiny85 but a 25 would work just as well. I happen to have 85s here.

Software: Easy as pie and not included… if pin D0 is low, send out pulses on pin D1, otherwise don’t do that.

A simple way to use the grbl firmware on an Arduino NANO CNC board with a Mostly Printed CNC (MPCNC). The dual motors on X and Y need to spin in opposite directions. Rather than using a RAMPS and hacking up the grbl software to allow E0 and E1 to be used as secondary X and Y axes, or wiring the motors in parallel and only getting half the current to each, this board can be plugged into the X and Y motor driver positions of the CNC board along with a pair of drivers.
R1 = 1k. R2 =10k. Q1 = MMBT3904. For each board you need two eight-pin Arduino shield style headers (male and female together), two eight-pin female headers for your 2nd stepper driver, and a pair of four-pin headers to connect your motors to.
Edit: Despite my initial thinking, this really doesn’t work with a Mega/RAMPS combination because of pin spacing. It does, however, work great for the Arduino Nano CNC shields (the ones I have were sold as “CNC Shield V4 for Arduino Nano” and have a ‘Keyes CNC’ label on it and a ‘2014/07/01’ date code).

Slight redesign of Giovanni Bauermeister’s ESP01 USB Programmer. He used CH340C chips while I have CH340G, so I had to add the 12MHz crystal. While I was at it I did my own layout in Eagle 7, since that’s what I have and know. Please see his design at https://github.com/bauertronix/esp01-usb-programmer for more information.

Since I redrew the schematic, I probably have different part designators. So here’s the BOM:
* C1, C4 - 0.1uf 0603
* C2, C3, C5 - 2.2uf 0603
* C6, C7 - 22pf 0603
* R1 - 1K 0603
* R2, R3 - 10K 0603
* D1 - 0603 sized LED
* Q1, Q2 - MMBT3904 (NPN SOT23)
* U1 - 1117 3.3v regulator
* U2 - CH340G USB UART chip
* Y1 - 12MHz crystal (HC-49S package)
* JP1 - 8 pin (2x4) header to plug ESP-01 into
* J1 - KUSBX-SMT2AP5S USB plug (I get them from Mouser)

Note:
The ESP-01 points away from the USB connector. I believe this is opposite of Giovanni’s.

ATmega 328PB Breakout board. This is inspired by/copied from/whatever-you-wanna-call-it from the One Square Inch of Goodness board by Jeremy Saglimbeni at www.thecustomgeek.com. I like his board very much but I wanted to add some bypass capacitors on the power rail, and then I remembered I had purchased some 328PB chips (the new ones that have slightly different capabilities). So I made a copy of his design, adding in the second I2C bus pins that would have gotten lost. I’m not sure if there’s Arduino support for this chip yet. Board and schematic in Eagle 7 format are on Github

BOM:
1 - ATmega 328PB TQFP
1 - 10k resistor (0603 size)
1 - 1k resistor (0603 size)
3 - 0.1uf capacitors (0603 size)
2 - 22pf capacitors (0603 size)
1 - LED (size should be obvious by now)
1 - 5x3 16MHz crystal

ATTiny85 based LED strip dimmer. Using up 78L05s I have laying around, and a DMG3404L mosfet to send the PWM out.