Shared Projects

Breakout board for Teensy 2.0. The inside small holes are to connect the teensy controller to this PCB which can be screwed down using standard motherboard standoffs. Mounting holes are sized for 6-32 screws.

Wireless Relay Control

Modified Greinacher doubler, 3 by ¾ diameter (plus extra shim). Intended to use SB540 diodes (they’re large, but they are intended to physically butt against the smaller capacitors) and 16V electrolytic caps, preferably Digikey parts

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=150331853 (8mm diameter, 5mm lead spacing, 1000 uF)

and

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=150249397 (18mm diameter, 7.5mm lead spacing, 10000 uF).

The central connections are sized to allow use of either 14 gauge wire or 1/16 inch tubing; the tubing would allow you to connect the two boards, and mount a 3.5mm terminal block across the four holes (AC input on the inside, DC output on the outside).

The circuitless board is intended to fit between the large end capacitor and the board to which it connects, to prevent inadvertent shorts to the other connections on that board.

The intended assembly order is (1) solder diodes and wires to the underside of the mostly-circular board, trimming connections on the top side, (2) fit circuitless shield and then solder large capacitor into place, (3) fit small capacitors etc into irregular board, perhaps shimming/shield with kapton tape, and (4) solder irregular board into place.

It is best to position the diodes closer to the round board, but still leaving enough so that there is enough room for them to connect to the irregular board with clearance for the smaller caps. This is so that the tops of the capacitors will be wedged against the diodes with less chance for wiggling.

This is suitable for powering between 1 and 4 power LEDs in series (4 x 3.5V Vf is 14 volts, the caps are rated at 16 volts, don’t push your luck). The power source is AC from either a sidewall or hub dynamo; both of these are inherently current-limited so it is not possible to burn out the LEDs. Any on/off switch inserted into the circuit should be on the AC (power input) side; removing the DC load will result in high voltages exceeding the ratings of the capacitors. Care should be taken using this to supply a switching power supply, because those can also “refuse current”, which will also result in high voltages (and the higher the voltage, the more current they refuse).

Commit c1dbce6ee13e69a33c1c6e1d742eebdca1b3cf28

Nanjg Programmer ATtiny13A not in circuit

It is to measure ECG

pair of transistors with resistors

sot363 to DIL header

Constant Current Supply - Using an LM317 or equivelent regulator, ideal for LED’s

Button Add-on Shield for Raspberry Pi

very small morse keyer with ATTiny10

A cheap timer for small trainer models

Breakout board for Sparkfun part COM-09426.

Control a HD44780 LCD with a 595 Shift Register using only 3 IO pins.

Allows use of a surface mount transistor ( eg J201 2N5457 ) in a standard 0.1" socket or breadboard.

Small board size (0.25" x 0.25").

Dual USB charge for 3A Solar PV panel

Sensor #2