Shared Projects

RGB LED Wrap for the D5 style of pump. Specifically designed for the Alphacool Eisball.

Just a tiny breakout board for a potentiometer.

Crowbar Chassis, slow Control

SWG under voltage monitor

Hudson Broadcast with added treble control. For 125B sized enclosure.

This is a pretty simple breakout for the RFM23BP +30dBm 1W board. It’s remixed from this one

https://github.com/AiratNig/TinyVFDClock

https://github.com/thedarknet/dc26-badge

breakout board for an IQD rubidium OCXO.

Schematic: https://www.phys.hawaii.edu/~mza/PCB/misc/breakout-boy.revA.schematic.pdf

New version with 0.1" headers

4 Phase Sinewave Generator for Turntable motor drive Rev B (I2C LCD Interface).

Regulating power input and output using schottkey diodes to prevent any ground loops.

Exposed auxiliary power switch I/O, power good output, and added power good led. Main and AUX enables are pulled down for default disabled state. Voltage select pulled down for 1V8 output by default. Move caps closer to ST1PS03 for better stability.

This is an older revision of a different board.

This is a drThis is a dropin board of batari’s S-video mod schematic for the Atari 2600. (The best Atari video mod in my opinion). The pause mod portion was designed by Victor Trucco.

Notes: The FMS6400 can be substituted with the FMS6410 or ML6428. I already routed 5 volts to ASEL (pin 2) on the FMS64XX so there’s no need to jump it yourself.

The FMS6406 is NOT compatible with board. You will fry the chip if you use the FMS6406

The TIA chip goes on the bottom header row

Jump the RDY Pad if you do not wish to use the Pause Mod. In doing so, you may leave the pause mod unpopulated. C & R pads are still required for audio.

I’ve noticed some eBay sellers, selling some other boards I’ve designed in the past without my permission. I consider this board under the Creative Commons License. If you wish to sell this board, you may (possibly) obtain my permission by contacting me through email.

My email is - [email protected]

This board is quick and dirty. Still can solder to it, it just unprofessional a tad that I didn’t test it, but If you wish to try it anyways, you may. Should work just fine as there’s no continuity errors in eagle.

Also, the board title mentions how there’s “no 75 ohm impedance on i/o” what I meant by that was that there’s no 75Ω impedance and pulldown resistors on the video lines after the FMS amplification. 6 more resistors of 0805 formfactor would actually the board much taller, and I wanted a dropin board that could’ve just worked in the Atari 600 Junior. Probably won’t work in the Jr. anyways, but I wanted it to be as small as possible. If you require the termination and pulldown then simply put some external 75Ω resistors inline with the video outputs, and wire a 75Ω resistor between the soldercups and grounding brackets of your panel mount jacks.

Any good hobbyist will and should have 75 ohm resistors on hand anyhow. So that shouldn’t be an issue.

® Missingno - Creative commons apply. If you wish to sell my board you may, but email me for my permission first.

pin board of batari’s S-video mod schematic for the Atari 2600. (The best Atari video mod in my opinion). The pause mod portion was designed by Victor Trucco.

Notes: The FMS6400 can be substituted with the FMS6410 or ML6428. I already routed 5 volts to ASEL (pin 2) on the FMS64XX so there’s no need to jump it yourself.

The FMS6406 is NOT compatible with board. You will fry the chip if you use the FMS6406

The TIA chip goes on the bottom header row

Jump the RDY Pad if you do not wish to use the Pause Mod. In doing so, you may leave the pause mod unpopulated. C & R pads are still required for audio.

I’ve noticed some eBay sellers, selling some other boards I’ve designed in the past without my permission. I consider this board under the Creative Commons License. If you wish to sell this board, you may (possibly) obtain my permission by contacting me through email.

My email is - [email protected]

This board is quick and dirty. Still can solder to it, it just unprofessional a tad that I didn’t test it, but If you wish to try it anyways, you may. Should work just fine as there’s no continuity errors in eagle.

Also, the board title mentions how there’s “no 75 ohm impedance on i/o” what I meant by that was that there’s no 75Ω impedance and pulldown resistors on the video lines after the FMS amplification. 6 more resistors of 0805 formfactor would actually the board much taller, and I wanted a dropin board that could’ve just worked in the Atari 600 Junior. Probably won’t work in the Jr. anyways, but I wanted it to be as small as possible. If you require the termination and pulldown then simply put some external 75Ω resistors inline with the video outputs, and wire a 75Ω resistor between the soldercups and grounding brackets of your panel mount jacks.

Any good hobbyist will and should have 75 ohm resistors on hand anyhow. So that shouldn’t be an issue.

® Missingno - Creative commons apply. If you wish to sell my board you may, but email me for my permission first.

To stop my USB power bank from turning itself off

4xADS131M08, STM32H743ZI, isolated USB, UART, SPI, sd-card

https://hackaday.io/project/181683-freeeeg32-alpha131

https://github.com/neuroidss/FreeEEG32-alpha131

16xADS131M08, STM32H743ZI, isolated USB, UART, SPI, sd-card

https://hackaday.io/project/181521-freeeeg128-alpha

https://github.com/neuroidss/FreeEEG128-alpha