Arduino Nano shield to make programming an ATtiny84 and an ATtiny85 quick and easy.

Change Log for ATtiny Programmer v3: - Moved the integrated circuit sockets further away from each other.

Differential op-amp ADC driver for small signals. Serializer for the 10-bit ADC which outputs LVDS into a TTL driver. Max bitrate is going to be 500mbit. Which is ~40MSPS. Ideal for signals <1MHZ.

Now with a calibration loop and u.fl output connector! At 12mA it can run for ~10Hrs

An inductive loop that gives some idea of field leakage.

Stupid little board to allow a Sunon MF40100V1-1000U-F99 fan, which has a good/fail output, to replace a -G99 type, which has a tachometer output. The ATTiny looks for the fan’s pin to be low, and if it’s low it sends pulses back to the Einsy. Why? Because I have some -F99 fans but want to put a good Sunon fan in my Prusa I3 Mk3. The Prusa will think the fan failed without some tachometer pulses. Plus, this gives it that one more thing to go wrong. U1 is an ATtiny85 but a 25 would work just as well. I happen to have 85s here.

Software: Easy as pie and not included… if pin D0 is low, send out pulses on pin D1, otherwise don’t do that.

This is an Interface Plate Keypin compatible on the Duplicator i3 Plus, the Maker Select Plus, and similar clones.

60V, 250mA Linear charger based on Linear Technology LTC4079. Features constant voltage, constant current, current sensing and reverse current protection. Charging can be terminated by either C/10 or adjustable timer. A Maxim MAX8212, a voltage detector monitor the battery voltage and disconnect the load when the voltage is too low. Useful for LTZ1000 circuit when an under-voltage condition can destroy the chip.

more info, schematic, BOM

LTZ1000 based, ultra stable voltage reference

Very stable (<0.1 ppm/°C), ultra-low noise and excellent long-term drift, reference standard based on Linear Technology LTZ1000.

The circuit and PCB are designed by John (IslandLabs.eu)

Details:

• PCB spec: 4-layer, 6 mil / 6 mil, ENIG plating
• Buffered and unbuffered outputs
• Supply voltage 11V to 18V
• Resistors R6A-B: Vishay VHP101 or similar
• Resistors R9, R10, R11 Vishay foil or similar
• Compatible opamps: Linear Tech: LTC2057, LT1006 SO-8, LT1006, LT1013, LT1413 DIP8; Analog Dev: ADA4522-1 SO8.
• Compatible LDO LT1763, ADP7104 or TLS203

more info, schematic, BOM

This is the third version of the SilverLight 5vFPV. This has the XTAL moved right away from the inductor for the 5v power supply which was causing interference in the RX circuit in the original SilverLight 5vFPV design. I also addressed a number of other relatively minor design flaws / improvements like -

numbered the ESC connector end pins 1 & 6

moved the 5v socket away from the programming socket as they were too close

fixed the wrongly labeled ADC / VIN pads

moved the XTAL caps closer to the XTAL

fixed the XN297 footprint which was too wide

modified the DRC so that the vias are now tented (covered with solder mask)

Moved the ESC connector over and added two VIN pads. I do not like putting up to 4S in through the tiny VCC and GND pins of the ESC connector especially if there is an FPV camera/ VTX also being used as well as power for the FC"

PDF of schematic available here - https://www.dropbox.com/s/59v4sqlvpaxhhz2/SilverLight%20FPV%205v.pdf?dl=0

BOM available here - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oSa94LWQMyIAyTTWv7rmzk9OhKeJjQdVcmoxLCC_LGM/edit?usp=sharing

Brought to you by http://MosMax.com

• B3SL-1005P: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/B3SL-1005P/SW1203CT-ND/2627376

• LTST-C19HE1WT: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTST-C19HE1WT/160-2162-1-ND/4866310

• Desolder on board DNA LED

• F1 & F2: to DNA fire pads

• Dr: to red DNA smd led pad

• Dg: to green DNA smd led pad

• Db: to blue DNA smd led pad

• D+: to + DNA smd led pad

Mounting hardware:

“#0-80” screws, standoffs & washers:

https://www.mcmaster.com/91780a020/

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91771a053/

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91772a051/

https://www.mcmaster.com/#92146a510/

740011A breakout for TI package 10 pins with “DGS” code

740007A SOT23-6 breakout in DIP18 footprint. At least I think it’s a DIP footprint. I used it on a breadboard a long time ago and don’t remember.

final

Eastbots DIO tester/breakout board, 2019 season revision.

based on previous diobd design: Tester and breakout for FRC and similar digital I/O. The 3-pin 1x3 headers each carry Ground, +5v, and Signal, in that order. Build it as a tester, with male and female horizontal socket and header strips. Or omit the male headers, and directly solder in the wires from a limit switch or break-beam sensor. Designed by FRC team 4795.

this rev add silkscreen identifying the three signal pins, and some #2 mounting holes. Silk on the back identifies this as being designed (and potentially fabricated) during the 2019 FRC season.

This is a very simple, beginner friendly, ATTiny programmer made to pop onto an Arduino Uno board. This board was designed with ease of use and minimal cost in mind. All of the passive components have both SMD and through hole footprints for simplicity and versatility.

To use this board flash your Uno with the Arduino as ISP sketch from the examples, then solder in the 12 header pins(6 on either edge), add in the 10UF capacitor - making sure to have it polarized correctly, and solder in your ATTiny IC or an 8/14 pin socket(or both!) And pop in your IC(again, keeping the orientation of the chip in mind), then flash the appropriate bootloader of your choosing from the Arduino IDE! Easy as that! If you like you can also add two 1/4w(or 0805) 220ohm resistors and two 5mm(or 0805) LEDs, and additional headers to prototype right off the board.

Things to keep in mind: The 10uf capacitor basically stops the ATMega on your uno from being programmed and allows it to program a different board, so you cannot put the shield on your Uno until after you’ve flashed the ArduinoISP sketch to your Uno. All of the analog pins on both packages are also assigned to a digital pin; if you’d like to use digitalRead, digitalWrite, and so on simple check out the relevant pinout for the IC you’re using to get the appropriate digital pin number! This board will definitely work with the DIP packages of the following: Attiny13/13A, Attiny25/45/85, and Attiny24/44/84. It may work with others, if you’re unsure, if it will work with your 8/14 pin Atmel MCU feel free to ask!

What You’ll Need: •8 or 14 pin ATTiny •Existing Arduino board or ISP programmer -(You will need dupont cables if not using an Uno) •10uf Capacitor in either a 1206 or 5-7mm radial package •12 Header pins (technically you only need 6 but it’ll be sloppy) Optional: •1x DIP-8 Socket •1x DIP-14 Socket •1x Blue 5mm or 0805 LED •1x Green 5mm or 0805 LED •2x 220ohm resistors in 0207-10(standard 1/4W) or 0805 package

using side entry battery holder